A Hilo chef’s efforts to bring Hawaii’s cuisine to mainland audiences were rewarded earlier this month by a prestigious dining publication.
A Hilo chef’s efforts to bring Hawaii’s cuisine to mainland audiences were rewarded earlier this month by a prestigious dining publication.
‘Aina, a Hawaiian food restaurant owned by Hilo native Jordan Kaeo in San Francisco, was awarded a place on Michelin’s 2018 Bib Gourmand list for the Bay Area for the second consecutive year.
“It’s been really humbling for me, but it’s a big win for Hawaii,” Kaeo said. “People want to learn more about Hawaiian language and culture more than ever.”
Michelin, a French tire company that awards restaurants highly coveted “Michelin Stars” each year, recognizes restaurants that offer “exceptionally good food at moderate prices” in its Bib Gourmand lists. Only 67 restaurants in the Bay Area were awarded a place on the list this year, although their inclusion on the list renders them ineligible for a Michelin Star this year.
‘Aina offers customers a range of Hawaii-style dishes, from Spam musubi, to Portuguese sausage, to loco moco and more using authentic Hawaii ingredients. Kaeo said he hopes to introduce traditional foods, such as poi, to the menu.
“People are receptive to Hawaiian food, but they need the perfect version of it,” Kaeo said. For example, poi must be pounded by hand and be infused with the passion and energy of the chef for it to be truly representative of Hawaii.
“You can’t afford to cut corners with this,” Kaeo said.
Kaeo was born on Oahu, but moved with his family to Hilo when he was young. After growing up with fishermen and farmers, eating off of the bounty of the island, Kaeo eventually realized that he had a passion for cooking.
“I’d never realized that I had been groomed to be a chef,” Kaeo said.
Kaeo attended the Culinary International Art Institute of San Diego in order to broaden his perspectives — “I wouldn’t be able to push myself if I studied on the island,” he said.
After graduating, Kaeo worked at several California restaurants, including the Hangout Cafe at Google headquarters, to improve his culinary training. By working with mainland chefs, Kaeo said he hoped to eventually establish a kitchen that combines Hawaiian cuisine with the fast-paced mentality of mainland restaurants.
“I wanted to educate people about our cuisine,” Kaeo said. “I think our food deserves respect.”
Kaeo opened ‘Aina early 2016 and quickly found success. Kaeo said the fact that ‘Aina offers brunch featuring eggs and rice, an uncommon combination on the mainland, is particularly popular among the restaurant’s clientele.
Within a year, ‘Aina won its first Bib Gourmand nod. Michelin guide critics praised its “decadent” loco moco and taro bread French toast, as well as its comfortable atmosphere.
Kaeo returned to Hawaii this week to make and present hand-pounded poi at the Hawaii Food and Wine Festival in Honolulu on Nov. 1. Kaeo said he tries to visit home every six months, but the success of the restaurant makes it difficult.
“It’s an exciting time for Hawaiian food,” Kaeo said. “We’re in the middle of a renaissance.”
Email Michael Brestovansky at mbrestovansky@hawaiitribune-herald.com